Niles Audio Speaker HDFX User Manual

I N S T A L L A T I O N G U I D E  
FOR USE IN MULTI-CHANNEL MUSIC OR HOME THEATER SYSTEMS  
HIGH DEFINITION, SIDE/REAR CHANNEL EFFECTS, IN-WALL LOUDSPEAKERS  
HDFX  
 
INTRODUCTION  
Niles HDFX High-Definition, Side-/Rear-Channel Effects, In-Wall Loudspeakers are expressly  
designed for superior sonic quality in side- or rear-channel applications. They employ advanced  
technology components that extract the subtle nuances in recorded music or the thunderous  
action sound in a movie. HDFX loudspeakers are the perfect choice wherever quality of sound is  
the most important consideration.  
FEATURES AND BENEFITS  
5-1/4-INCH INJECTION-MOLDED TCC WOOFER WITH  
BUTYL-RUBBER SURROUND, LONG-THROW VOICE  
COIL/MAGNET STRUCTURE, AND VENTED POLE PIECE  
The HDFX features newly-developed woofer-cone material that combines injection-molded  
polypropylene with talc, carbon, and ceramic (TCC) stiffening agents. As a result, the cone offers  
extreme stiffness and light weight for accurate, dynamic response. A long-throw voice coil/magnet  
structure ensures increased cone excursion to enhance low frequency response and dynamic  
impact. Additionally, the woofer employs a vented pole piece for increased bass linearity and a  
butyl-rubber surround for improved midrange damping and clarity as well as moisture resistance.  
DUAL 2-1/4-INCH INJECTION-MOLDED TCC  
FULL-RANGE DRIVERS FOR SIDE-CHANNEL EFFECTS  
Dual 2-1/4-inch injection-molded TCC™ (talc, carbon, and ceramic-filled) polypropylene full-range  
drivers fire to either side, providing a uniform, sound field that is ideal for special effects.  
COAXIAL 1-INCH TETERON TRI-LAMINATE TWEETER  
WITH FLUID-COOLING AND ULTRA-WIDE DISPERSION  
FOR CLEAR AND DETAILED HIGH FREQUENCIES  
The HDFX’s 1-inch Coaxial Teteron Tweeter employs a tri-laminate design consisting of an inner  
textile layer, which forms the dome, a high damping layer to kill unwanted resonances, and an  
outside layer of urethane to add stiffness and prevent breakup modes. The result is a transparently  
clear, sweet, natural-sounding tweeter, which still maintains extended frequency response.  
INSTALLER-SELECTABLE ACOUSTIC FINE TUNING  
Using the baffle-mounted TREBLE/CUT and BASS/CUT controls, the installer can de-emphasize the  
bass and/or treble response by 3 dB after installing the HDFX to precisely tone match the sound in  
any room.  
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BIPOLE/DIPOLE AND FX/CUT SWITCHES  
The HDFX also includes a baffle-mounted BIPOLE/DIPOLE mode switch so the installer can set the sur-  
round effects for either side or rear placement. A companion FX/CUT switch allows adjustment of the  
direct/diffuse sound field balance to provide realistic effects, regardless of room size.  
EASY RETROFIT INSTALLATION IN YOUR EXISTING HOME  
Designed for ease of installation, the Niles mounting system makes retrofit installations simple and  
fast. A supplied template assures fast and accurate hole cutting. The bracket slips behind the drywall,  
and the screws secure the bracket to the frame, sandwiching the drywall between them. The loud-  
speaker baffle attaches to the frame, and the grille mounts over the loudspeaker.  
THREE-STAGE INSTALLATION SYSTEM FOR REMODELS OR  
NEW CONSTRUCTION  
Only the parts needed are installed during a particular stage of construction. After framing and wiring  
are finished, the bracket is installed. After the drywall is up, but before the painter begins to paint, the  
frame is installed, and the rustproof aluminum grille is left for the painter to match to the surround-  
ings. The loudspeaker is installed only when construction is completely finished. Masking or prepping  
the loudspeaker for painting and worries about loudspeaker theft during final construction are never  
an issue!  
MICROPERF™ ALUMINUM GRILLES  
Niles’ exclusive MicroPerf™ aluminum-grille construction provides an exceptionally tight hole  
pattern for acoustic transparency at all audio frequencies and enables the loudspeaker elements  
to remain invisible. MicroPerf™ aluminum grilles can also be painted to blend seamlessly with the  
surrounding decor.  
NILES’ HD HIGH-DEFINITION VOICE MATCHING  
Ensures compatibility with other Niles HD High-Definition in-wall, on-wall, and ceiling-mount models  
to accommodate a wide range of system designs.  
DOLBY® DIGITAL READY  
The HDFX is specifically designed for Home Theater Sound. This model exceeds the specifications set  
forth by Dolby Laboratories for the accurate reproduction of Dolby Digital-Encoded Sources.  
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INSTALLATION CONSIDERATIONS  
Bracket  
New Construction Wings  
Frame  
Loudspeaker Baffle  
Grille  
Acoustic Fine  
Tuning Controls  
Figure 1. Mounting an HDFX vertically into a wall  
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NILES AUDIO CORPORATION – 1-800-BUY-HIFI – 305-238-4373  
 
TOOLS AND PRECAUTIONS  
We recommend using the following tools to install an HDFX loudspeaker:  
• Electric drill with 1/4- and 1/2-inch drill bits, and a 1-inch flat drill bit  
(for drilling through studs)  
• Keyhole or drywall saw  
• Stiff wire, fish tape, or glow rods (for routing cables)  
• Phillips screwdriver set  
• Cable ties  
• Pencil  
• Level  
• Rubber gloves and protective eyewear  
Before starting the installation, please observe the following precautions:  
• Turn off all system power before making any connections.  
• Always wear protective eyewear when using tools.  
• Make sure hands are clean before installation.  
• Wear gloves when working with fiberglass insulation.  
RECOMMENDED AMPLIFIER POWER  
For satisfactory performance, we recommend using a surround amplifier with a power rating of  
10 to 150 watts. Curiously, most loudspeakers are not damaged by large amplifiers, but rather  
by small amplifiers. If your system is playing loud music, a small amplifier will run out of power  
very quickly and can create damaging “clipping” distortions. A more powerful amplifier will play at  
the same volume without distorting. See OPERATION on page 22 for more information about  
amplifier clipping distortion.  
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LOUDSPEAKER WIRE  
Use 2-conductor loudspeaker wire when connecting loudspeakers to your receiver or amplifier. For  
most applications, we recommend using 16- or 18-gauge wire. For wiring runs longer than 80 feet,  
we recommend 14-gauge wire. The spring-loaded terminals of the HDFX will accommodate up to  
12-gauge wire directly. Larger sizes can be accommodated via pin connectors.  
When running wire inside walls or ceilings, use special jacketed cable (CL-2 or CL-3) to protect the  
wire and for fire prevention. In some areas, conduit is also required. For a trouble-free installation,  
low-voltage wire such as loudspeaker wire must be run in accordance with the National Electrical  
Code and any applicable provisions of the local building code. If you are unsure of the correct instal-  
lation techniques, wire jacket, or type of conduit to use, consult a professional audio/video installer,  
building contractor, or the local building and inspection department.  
INSULATING THE WALL CAVITY  
For best performance from your loudspeakers, fill the wall cavity behind the loudspeaker with  
fiberglass insulation (e.g., R-19 unfaced insulation). Try to keep the same amount of insulation for  
each loudspeaker, particularly in the same room, for consistent bass response.  
TECH TIP  
Wire size is expressed by its AWG (American  
Wire Gauge) number – the lower the number,  
the larger the wire. For example, 12 AWG is  
physically larger than 14 AWG.  
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LOUDSPEAKER PLACEMENT  
NOTE: THE NILES HDFX LOUDSPEAKER IS DESIGNED FOR USE IN SIDE- OR REAR-CHANNEL  
APPLICATIONS ONLY. FOR FRONT-OR CENTER-CHANNEL APPLICATIONS, WE RECOMMEND USING A  
NILES HDLCR OR HDLCRBX LOUDSPEAKER  
PLACEMENT FOR HOME THEATER REAR APPLICATIONS  
In home theater, the goal is to reproduce the experience of a great movie theater in your home. The  
biggest difference between the two venues is the use of a rear- or surround-loudspeaker array in a  
commercial theater. Here, it is not uncommon to see 20 or 30 loudspeakers placed around theater  
walls. This huge array of loudspeakers assures the audience will feel completely surrounded by the  
ambient soundtrack of the movie.  
Filmmakers carefully use the “surround” soundtrack to envelope viewers in the sound environment  
on screen. They will place background music, rain sounds, traffic noise, etc. on the “surround”  
soundtrack to create desired effects. However, in a home with a single pair of front loudspeakers,  
this surround effect will be lost, and jungle sounds may actually sound like they are emanating “from  
the middle of your head,” just like headphones!  
Each HDFX loudspeaker is equipped with a BIPOLE/DIPOLE switch that optimizes the surround  
effects for either side or rear placement (see SETTING THE BIPOLE/DIPOLE MODE  
on page 20). Here are some recommended loudspeaker placement tips:  
• Place the surround loudspeakers on a rear wall directly behind the listening position. If  
possible, try placing the loudspeakers nearer to the corners, as shown in Figure 2 and  
3. Set each BIPOLE/DIPOLE switch to DIPOLE for reflected sound. Moreover, the adjoin-  
ing walls will act as powerful reflectors to create even more reflections.  
• If you place the surround loudspeakers farther away from the listener, the surround  
sound will dissipate, requiring even more power from the surround-sound channels. If  
your sound system uses a small 5- or 10-watt surround amplifier for the rear loud-  
speakers, be sure to place the loudspeakers within 5 to 8 feet of the listening location.  
• If you are using a larger 25- to 50-watt surround amplifier, you can mount the loud-  
speakers 10 to 15 feet away from the listening location and still achieve reasonably  
high volume levels. In large or unusually-shaped rooms, this might be the only way to  
achieve a good effect.  
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Figure 2. HDFX loudspeakers are placed  
near back corner walls of a home theater room.  
Figure 3. HDFX loudspeakers are placed  
near back corner walls of a home theater room  
with an L-shaped sofa.  
• If your home theater system is capable of reproducing Dolby EX surround sound,  
consider using a second pair of HDFX loudspeakers (on the side walls) for an additional  
rear surround effect, as shown in Figure 4 (on the next page). Ideally, the side loud-  
speakers should be placed in-line with the listening position with the BIPOLE/DIPOLE  
controls set to DIPOLE. For a more focused surround effect, set the BIPOLE/DIPOLE  
controls to BIPOLE.  
• If you like listening to music in surround modes (which emulate concert hall acoustics),  
consider using more than two surround loudspeakers to provide an extraordinary  
effect. With Niles HDFX loudspeakers, it is easy to add another pair without affecting  
the decor of the room.  
NOTE: FOR THIS APPLICATION, YOU WILL NEED TO USE A MORE POWERFUL AMPLIFIER THAN  
THE ONE BUILT INTO A TYPICAL SURROUND-SOUND RECEIVER OR AMPLIFIER. NILES MAKES A  
NUMBER OF SYSTEMS INTEGRATION AMPLIFIERS WITH PROPRIETARY FEATURES THAT MAKE  
THEM UNIQUELY SUITED TO ENHANCE YOUR EXISTING SURROUND-SOUND SYSTEM. CONSULT  
YOUR LOCAL NILES DEALER FOR MORE INFORMATION.  
(CONTINUED ON NEXT PAGE)  
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PLACEMENT FOR HOME THEATER REAR APPLICATIONS  
(CONTINUED)  
Figure 4. Two pairs of HDFX loudspeakers  
reproduce Dolby EX surround sound in a home  
theater room.  
THE BOUNDARY EFFECT  
Placing a loudspeaker in a corner can powerfully affect the way a listener perceives bass response.  
Known as the boundary effect, placing loudspeakers close to a wall/ceiling boundary or near a  
corner-wall boundary will emphasize certain bass frequencies, while canceling others. This effect  
can make the loudspeaker sound excessively boomy and inaccurate to some listeners, while to  
others it just seems like more bass sound.  
As a good rule-of-thumb, if you like listening to your current pair of loudspeakers with the bass  
turned up, you’ll enjoy corner placement. However, if you listen with the tone controls at neutral, try  
keeping the loudspeakers at least 2 or 3 feet from the boundaries of the room.  
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INSTALLATION FUNDAMENTALS  
RUNNING THE LOUDSPEAKER WIRE IN NEW  
CONSTRUCTION  
IMPORTANT: IF YOU HAVE DOUBTS ABOUT WHETHER YOU ARE CAPABLE OF INSTALLING A NILES  
WALL-MOUNT LOUDSPEAKER, PLEASE CONSULT A NILES DEALER OR PROFESSIONAL INSTALLER.  
THEY HAVE SPECIAL TOOLS, TECHNIQUES, AND EXPERIENCE TO MAKE THE IMPOSSIBLE JOB  
POSSIBLE. THE INSTALLER CAN PROVIDE YOU WITH AN ESTIMATE BEFORE ANY WORK IS DONE.  
OBSERVE SAFETY FIRST!  
• Always wear gloves, safety goggles, and head protection gear when drilling or  
cutting holes.  
• Avoid drilling near nails – they ruin bits and can cause injury.  
• Be careful using “hole-hogs” and other powerful electric drills. The torque of this  
drill when suddenly stopped by a nail can break the wrist of a strong man.  
SCHEDULING AND PREPARATION  
Plan to schedule the loudspeaker wiring after the electrical wiring is finished. That way you can  
avoid wire routes, which could potentially induce hum over the loudspeaker wire. The basic wiring  
rules are:  
• Never run loudspeaker wire through the same hole as an electrical cable.  
• Never run loudspeaker wire into the same J-box as electrical cable.  
• Avoid running the loudspeaker wire beside the electrical cable. Keep your loudspeaker  
cable at a distance of at least 3 feet from any electrical power cable.  
• If side-by-side wiring is unavoidable in particular spots in the house, move the  
loudspeaker wire route away as soon as possible.  
• If construction forces a side-by-side run for more than 10 feet, install metal conduit  
or shielded loudspeaker wire. Low-voltage wires such as doorbells, intercoms,  
telephone, security, or television cannot cause interference or hum on your  
loudspeaker wires, so you can safely run all of them at the same time, through the  
same holes, side-by-side.  
• Before drilling any holes, mount the loudspeaker brackets in the desired loudspeaker  
locations and mount p-rings or open-backed J-boxes where the in-wall volume con-  
trols and stereo equipment will be located.  
(CONTINUED ON NEXT PAGE)  
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RUNNING THE LOUDSPEAKER WIRE IN NEW  
CONSTRUCTION (CONTINUED)  
ABOUT DRILLING  
Use a bit that is large enough for the wires you plan to run. This is an important consideration,  
since you may be drilling a lot of holes. Here are some additional tips:  
• We recommend using an auger bit for rough-in wiring. It will actually pull itself through  
the wood, so that the drill motor, not you, does most of the work.  
• Always drill the holes in the center of the stud. If you have to notch the stud or drill the  
hole closer than 1 inch from the edge of the stud, protect the wire with a nail plate, as  
shown in Figure 5.  
• When drilling holes in ceiling joists, drill in the center of the joists and try to locate  
the hole near the end of the joist.  
IMPORTANT: DO NOT DRILL THROUGH A GIVE-LAM  
OR LOAD-BEARING BEAM WITHOUT THE DIRECTION  
OF YOUR CONTRACTOR.  
• Try to line the holes up perfectly, because it makes  
pulling the wire much easier. A good technique is  
to snap a chalk line across the face of the studs or  
against the bottom of the ceiling joists. Then work  
backward so that you can always see the holes  
you have already drilled. Paying careful attention  
to this will save you time later on.  
Figure 5. Installing a nail  
plate to protect wiring in a  
notched stud.  
PULLING THE CABLE  
Pull the cable in sections (from the stereo to the volume control, from the volume control to the  
loudspeaker). Start with the longest sections and use leftover wire to complete the short sections.  
Also consider the following wiring tips:  
• If you plan to pull many rooms at the same time through a central route, walk off  
the distance to each destination, add a generous “fudge factor” for turns and other  
obstacles, and then cut off each section, so you can pull a bundle of wires at once.  
• When running the wire further than 4-1/2 feet from a hole in a stud or joist (e.g., open  
attic space, going up walls, etc.), be sure to fasten the wire to the joists or studs using  
cable clamps or appropriately-sized wire staples. The wire should not have large sags  
in it, nor should it be too tight.  
• Try to protect the wire from being stepped on in attics or other unfinished crawl  
spaces. Use guard strips, raceways, or conduits to protect the cable. Consult the local  
building code for special requirements in your area.  
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CONCEALING LOUDSPEAKER WIRE  
ABOUT INTERIOR WALLS  
Interior walls in almost all North American residences are hollow, so they are easy installation sites  
for flush mounting loudspeakers and routing new loudspeaker cable in the house. Looking at a  
painted wallboard, plaster, or paneling, you only see the skin of the wall. Behind it is the home’s  
skeleton; 2-by-4 inch wood or metal “studs” running vertically from the floor to the ceiling in walls  
and 2-by-6 inch or larger “joists” running horizontally in the ceilings and floors. The space between  
the studs and joists is used for the home’s wiring and plumbing.  
ABOUT EXTERIOR WALLS  
Concealing wires in exterior walls is more complex, since the walls are stuffed with insulation to  
protect the house from the heat and cold outside. Moreover, our national building code requires  
that a horizontal stud placed between the vertical studs break the hollow wall space in exterior  
walls. This “fire blocking” makes it very difficult to retrofit long lengths of wire. In some areas  
of the country, the exterior walls are constructed of solid masonry and have no hollow space for  
loudspeakers or wires.  
PLANNING THE LOUDSPEAKER WIRE ROUTE  
Start by examining all the possible routes you  
might take to run the loudspeaker wire from the  
loudspeaker to the home theater system. Use a  
stud sensor or other device to locate the internal  
structure of the wall. You will want to avoid all studs  
or joists. Figure 6 shows a typical wire run from  
the loudspeaker location in the wall, across the attic,  
then down through a top plate (i.e., the horizontal  
2-by-4 or 2-by-6 inch wood laid across the vertical  
studs) to a wall plate or a J-Box in the wall behind  
the home theater system itself.  
loudspeaker  
Location  
Volume  
Control  
Location  
Find all the locations of your existing electrical,  
phone, and TV wiring, and then plan the loudspeaker  
wire route to avoid them. Crossing wire paths is  
acceptable, but 60 Hz hum may be induced in the  
reproduced audio if loudspeaker wire is run paral-  
lel to electrical wire for more than a few feet. If  
possible, try to keep loudspeaker wire away from  
parallel power cables by at least 3 feet.  
Stereo  
Location  
Figure 6. Running loudspeaker wire  
from a wall loudspeaker to a home theater  
system location.  
(CONTINUED ON NEXT PAGE)  
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CONCEALING LOUDSPEAKER WIRE (CONTINUED)  
PLANNING THE LOUDSPEAKER WIRE ROUTE (CONTINUED)  
To find exactly where an electrical cable is routed, try inspecting the inside of the wall by turn-  
ing off the breaker for a particular power outlet or switch, removing the cover plate and switch  
or receptacle, and then shining a penlight into the wall. If you have access to an attic or base-  
ment space, you can quickly see which part of the wall space is free of obstructions, as shown in  
Figure 7.  
Figure 7. An example of  
unobstructed wall space for  
loudspeaker wiring.  
When you don’t have access above or below the wall, try to estimate the existing wire and pipe  
locations from known positions of electrical outlets and plumbed fixtures on both sides of the wall.  
Take a look at the outside of your house too – sometimes conduit, vents, or drainpipe will provide  
useful visible clues. Choose the route with the fewest potential obstacles.  
If the home is built on a slab, or a loudspeaker wire route is planned between two finished floors,  
look for baseboards that could be removed for wire placement. Doorjambs can also be removed  
and often have enough space for loudspeaker wire all the way around the door, as shown in  
Figure 8.  
Figure 8. Running loudspeaker  
wire between a wall and a removed  
doorjamb. Nail plates are also  
installed to protect the wire when  
the doorjamb is replaced.  
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OTHER POSSIBLE LOUDSPEAKER WIRE ROUTES INCLUDE:  
• Under-the-carpet runs using flat loudspeaker wires.  
• Heating and air conditioning vents used as wire raceways for plenum-rated wire.  
NOTE: CHECK YOUR LOCAL BUILDING CODES, SINCE SOME MUNICIPALITIES REQUIRE CONDUIT.  
CUTTING HOLES  
In traditional wood stud/drywall construction, first cut the hole for the loudspeaker. Then, in the  
opening, use a drill with a long bit to auger a wire route up or down the wall. Next, cut a hole in the  
drywall for stud access, drill holes through the studs, and run your wire, as shown in Figure 9.  
After the wire has been run, patch the  
hole with the cut drywall using standard  
drywall joint tape and joint compound.  
Let the patch dry, sand the surface, and  
touch-up the wall with paint.  
NOTE: BE PATIENT WITH UNKNOWN  
STRUCTURES OR DIFFICULT-TO-PATCH  
WALL MATERIALS LIKE PLASTER, LATH  
AND PLASTER, FAUX FINISHES, WALLPAPER  
ETC. ALWAYS PERFORM A CAREFUL STUDY  
OF THE POTENTIAL PROBLEMS BEFORE  
STARTING THE JOB.  
NEW CONSTRUCTION: IN-  
STALLING A BRACKET  
Figure 9. Example of a  
wall loudspeaker cutout with  
studs drilled for wire run.  
(CONTINUED ON NEXT PAGE)  
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NEW CONSTRUCTION: INSTALLING A BRACKET  
The hole-saving bracket enables a faster and cleaner final installation of the loudspeaker. It forces  
the drywall installer to cut out the loudspeaker hole for you and provides wire ties for the loud-  
speaker wire, reducing the risks of accidental loss or movement of the wire. In addition, it enables  
you to align your loudspeakers with other ceiling fixtures with greater accuracy, since you can see  
exactly where the loudspeaker will be.  
INSTALLING THE BRACKET  
1. Attach the QuickSnap™ new-construction wings to the bracket by snapping them into  
the bracket sides, as shown in Figure 10. If the length will interfere with corner or  
eaves, shorten the wings by breaking them along the scored lines.  
Figure 10. The hole-saving brackets include  
QuickSnap new-construction wings.  
2. Screw one side of the assembled bracket with wings to the stud or joist, using one  
of the supplied screws. Level the bracket, and then screw the other side of the  
bracket/wing assembly to the stud or joist. Two screws on each side make for a  
very secure installation.  
3. Attach the wire to the bracket at the indicated wire tie points, as shown in Figure 11.  
Figure 11. The brackets have  
four wire-tie points.  
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CONCEALING LOUDSPEAKER WIRE FOR A FUTURE  
INSTALLATION  
1. Attach the loudspeaker wire in a loop between the wall studs or ceiling joists and  
carefully mark the exact location of the wire on a set of plans.  
2. Ask the general contractor to inform the drywall installers that the loudspeaker wire  
loops are concealed for future installations, as shown in Figure 12.  
Figure 12. The loudspeaker  
wire is looped and hung on  
two nails attached to the joists,  
securing it for future use. Be  
sure to note the location on  
house plans.  
EXISTING CONSTRUCTION: INSTALLING A BRACKET  
IMPORTANT: BEFORE YOU CUT INTO ANY WALL, REVIEW THE SECTIONS ON RUNNING WIRE AND  
LOUDSPEAKER PLACEMENT STARTING ON PAGE 6. BE SURE NOT TO DRILL OR CUT THROUGH  
EXISTING WIRES, PIPES, OR STRUCTURE. IF YOU FEEL ANY EXTRA RESISTANCE AS YOU ARE  
DRILLING OR SAWING, STOP!  
1. Locate studs or joists by using a stud sensor or by hand knocking. Do not place the  
edge of the cutout directly next to a stud or joist, since the frame and bracket will  
extend beyond the cutout.  
2. At the planned cutout site, drill a 1/8-inch pilot hole  
just barely through the wall, about an inch below  
the center of your proposed loudspeaker location.  
NOTE: IN MOST HOMES, THE WALL THICKNESS IS 1/2 TO  
5/8 INCH.  
3. Cut a foot-long piece of coat hanger and bend it to  
create a right angle. Poke the “L-shaped” wire into  
the pilot hole and turn it in a complete circle, as  
shown in Figure 13.  
Figure 13. Using a coat  
hanger to check for obstructions  
behind the wall loudspeaker site.  
(CONTINUED ON NEXT PAGE)  
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EXISTING CONSTRUCTION: INSTALLING A BRACKET (CONTINUED)  
4. Continue turning the coat hanger as you move it into the cavity to a depth of approxi-  
mately 4 inches. If you feel an obstruction, fill the hole(s) with spackling compound  
and repeat steps 1 through 4 at a new location.  
5. If the coat hanger moves freely in a complete circle, hold the supplied template up  
to the wall or ceiling and level it in the horizontal or vertical position. Use a pencil to  
outline the cutout on the surface and then drill the four corner holes with a 1/4-inch bit  
(see Figure 14 on page 17).  
6. If you are cutting drywall, use a sheetrock or keyhole saw. Cut the outline with the saw  
at a 45-degree angle. That way, the drywall section can be replaced cleanly if there is  
an unseen obstruction behind the wall.  
7. If you are cutting into a plaster ceiling, use masking tape to outline the penciled open-  
ing and use a razor to score the plaster down to the lath beneath. Then use a chisel to  
remove all of the plaster within the taped outline. To actually cut the lath, consider the  
following two professional methods:  
• Use a saber saw with a metal cutting blade for the quickest cut. However, saw-  
ing lath with a saber saw can easily vibrate plaster off the ceiling in a completely  
distant location, thereby creating more patchwork.  
• If you have the patience, use a pair of tin snips to slowly nip away at the lath  
instead. There is little risk with this method – it is just more time consuming.  
16  
 
FINISHING THE INSTALLATION  
PAINTING THE GRILLE AND FRAME  
After drywall is up, each HDFX frame and grille may be painted without the need for primer. For  
best results, use a spray gun or airless sprayer, thin the paint to prevent clogging of the grille holes,  
and apply several light coats instead of one heavy one.  
1. Paint each grille and let it dry before installation.  
2. Paint each frame and let it dry before installation.  
INSTALLING THE FRAME  
1. Fill each wall cavity with insulation. Remember to use equal amounts of insulation for  
each loudspeaker.  
2. For existing construction, slip the mounting bracket through the hole and pull it toward  
you so that its front edge slides into the hole and stops in place.  
NOTE: FOR NEW CONSTRUCTION, THE MOUNTING BRACKET SHOULD ALREADY BE IN PLACE  
(AS DESCRIBED IN THE SECTION NEW CONSTRUCTION: INSTALLING A BRACKET ON PAGE 14.  
3. Attach each frame to its bracket using the supplied screws, as shown in Figure 14.  
The screws should pull the frame and bracket together (sandwiching the drywall)  
so that the frame is absolutely flush with the wall surface. There should be no gaps  
between the wall and the frame.  
IMPORTANT: DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN THE SCREWS! OVER TIGHTENING THEM MAY MAKE  
THE GRILLE DIFFICULT TO INSTALL.  
Figure 14. Installing the  
frame into a mounting bracket.  
17  
NILES AUDIO CORPORATION – 1-800-BUY-HIFI – 305-238-4373  
 
CONNECTING AND INSTALLING THE LOUDSPEAKER  
1. At each loudspeaker, separate the loudspeaker wire so that at least 2 inches of each  
conductor are free. Strip away 1/4 inch of insulation from each loudspeaker wire.  
2. On each set of loudspeaker connectors, press down the spring-loaded lever, insert the  
appropriate conductor, and then release the lever, as shown in Figure 15. Gently tug  
on the loudspeaker wire to make sure it is held in place. If not, repeat this procedure  
until it is.  
NOTE: OBSERVE CORRECT POLARITY: POSITIVE (+) GOES INTO THE RED TERMINAL AND  
NEGATIVE (–) GOES INTO THE BLACK TERMINAL.  
Figure 15. Connecting a loudspeaker wire to  
the HDFX terminals.  
3. Connect the other end of each loudspeaker wire to  
the receiver (or amplifier) in the same way. If you  
are unsure of wire polarity, see the next section,  
Checking Loudspeaker Phase on page 19.  
NOTE: OBSERVE CORRECT POLARITY: POSITIVE (+)  
GOES INTO THE RED TERMINAL AND NEGATIVE (–)  
GOES INTO THE BLACK TERMINAL.  
4. Install the loudspeaker baffle into its frame by  
inserting the tabs at the base into the correspond-  
ing holes in the frame and pushing the loud-  
speaker forward until the snaps engage, as shown  
in Figure 16.  
Figure 16. Installing the  
loudspeaker baffle into its frame.  
18  
 
IMPORTANT: WHEN INSTALLING THE LOUDSPEAKERS IN THE CEILING, OR IF THE INSTALLATION  
IS IN AN EARTHQUAKE ZONE, WE RECOMMEND USING THE ENCLOSED SHEET METAL SCREWS  
TO SECURE THE BAFFLE TO THE FRAME AS FOLLOWS:  
a. Locate the dimples on the front baffle.  
b. Place the self-tapping sheet-metal screw in the dimple and turn it with a screwdriver  
until it cuts through the baffle and anchors securely in the frame, as shown  
in Figure 17.  
Figure 17. Inserting the loudspeaker  
baffle into its frame with sheet-metal screws.  
5. Turn on the home theater receiver and calibrate all loudspeakers in the system  
according to the receiver manufacturer’s instructions.  
CHECKING LOUDSPEAKER PHASE  
Loudspeaker wire has two conductors. On both your loudspeaker and amplifier, one conductor is  
attached to the negative (–) terminals, while the other is attached to the positive (+) terminals.  
Usually, the wire is marked for your convenience, but the marking can be done in the following  
different ways:  
• Stripe on one wire  
• Ribbed area you can feel on one conductor  
• Different colors of metal wire on each conductor  
• Fabric strand or string wound into one of the conductors  
(CONTINUED ON NEXT PAGE)  
19  
NILES AUDIO CORPORATION – 1-800-BUY-HIFI – 305-238-4373  
 
CHECKING LOUDSPEAKER PHASE (CONTINUED)  
Of course, there are some wires that appear completely identical. So be careful, or you might make  
a connection mistake. If you do, one loudspeaker will be playing “out-of-phase” with the other  
loudspeaker. A pair of out-of-phase loudspeakers works against each other, and the sound of the  
two playing together will be lacking in bass and sound “phasey.” If you suspect the sound is not  
right, and you cannot see any markings on the wire, try this simple test:  
1. Stand halfway between the loudspeakers.  
2. Play some music with the amplifier or radio set to Mono.  
3. Listen to the richness of the bass and the loudness of the sound.  
4. Turn off the amplifier and reverse the connections on one amplifier channel only.  
5. Repeat the listening test with the same volume control setting. When the sound has a  
richer bass and is slightly louder, the loudspeakers are working together or “in-phase.”  
SETTING THE BIPOLE/DIPOLE MODE  
Set the BIPOLE/DIPOLE switch on each HDFX according to the loudspeaker’s side or rear place-  
ment, as shown in Figure 18 (on the next page). Here are some tips on usage:  
• Use the DIPOLE setting on rear loudspeakers when listening to movies and classical  
music. The sound will be less focused as it is reflected along the room’s boundaries.  
This is the best choice, since most films are mixed using non-localized surround  
effects, and classical music is usually recorded in a favorable acoustic environment.  
• Use the BIPOLE setting on rear loudspeakers when listening to discrete multichannel  
recordings that equally emphasize front and surround sounds.  
• For multiple sets of HDFX loudspeakers, use the BIPOLE setting on the side  
loudspeakers (aimed at the listening position) for a more focused surround effect.  
For the rear loudspeakers, use the DIPOLE setting to diffuse the sound.  
20  
 
SETTING THE DIRECT/DIFFUSE SOUND FIELD BALANCE  
Each HDFX also includes a companion FX/CUT control (see  
Figure 18) that allows adjustment of the direct/diffuse  
sound field balance to provide realistic effects regardless  
of room size.  
• In large rooms (where the loudspeakers are  
farther away from the listening position), use the  
FX setting for a more direct sound.  
Figure 18. The HDFX includes  
• In small rooms, use the CUT setting for a more  
diffuse sound.  
BIPOLE/DIPOLE and FX/CUT controls.  
ACOUSTIC FINE TUNING  
Each HDFX loudspeaker features separate, baffle-mounted  
TREBLE/CUT and BASS/CUT controls for acoustic  
fine-tuning after installation, as shown in Figure 19.  
• If an HDFX is placed near a boundary, use the  
CUT setting to lower the bass response by 3 dB.  
• If an HDFX is placed in a room with highly  
reflective surfaces like glass or tile, use  
the CUT setting to lower the high-frequency  
response by 3 dB.  
Figure 19. The HDFX features  
TREBLE/CUT and BASS/CUT controls.  
INSTALLING THE GRILLE  
At each loudspeaker, carefully fit the grille into its recess so that it is barely in place. Starting with  
one corner, gently press the grille around the loudspeaker, pushing it in a little bit each time. Be  
gentle – the aluminum grille can be easily bent out of shape. When properly installed, the grille will  
be absolutely flush in appearance with the surrounding frame.  
21  
NILES AUDIO CORPORATION – 1-800-BUY-HIFI – 305-238-4373  
 
OPERATION  
LISTENING AT HIGHER VOLUMES  
Achieving a reasonable volume of sound in a large room requires more amplifier power than it does  
in a small room. It is possible to turn the volume up so high that the amplifier runs out of power. This  
creates “clipping” distortion, which will make treble sound very harsh and unmusical.  
When you hear harsh-sounding treble from any good loudspeaker, turn the volume down immediate-  
ly! Those harsh sounds are masking much more powerful ultra-high-frequency sound spikes, which  
will quickly damage any fine loudspeaker. You are much less likely to damage a loudspeaker driven  
by a large amplifier because it will be very loud before any clipping distortion is produced.  
CLEANING  
Clean the Niles HDFX loudspeaker with a dampened soft cloth or paper towel. If the loudspeaker is  
mounted high up on a wall or ceiling, use a broom to gently brush it off.  
REMOVING THE GRILLE AND LOUDSPEAKER  
REMOVING THE GRILLE  
If you need to remove an installed grille, use a bent paper clip  
or the tip of a corkscrew to gently pull it away from the frame.  
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REMOVING THE LOUDSPEAKER  
After removing the grille, use two small screwdrivers (or  
needle-nose pliers) to release the snaps that hold the loud-  
speaker (and baffle) to the frame. Insert the screwdrivers into  
the holes in the snaps and exert force straight down (towards  
the woofer) until the snaps release, as shown in Figure 20.  
Once the snaps release, the loudspeaker can be tilted away  
from the frame to be removed.  
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NOTE: DO NOT ATTEMPT TO USE THE FRAME FOR LEVERAGE, AS  
THIS MAY DAMAGE THE SURFACE OF THE FRAME.  
Figure 20. Removing the HDFX  
loudspeaker baffle from its frame.  
22  
 
SPECIFICATIONS  
Recommended Amplifier Power  
10 to 150 watts per channel  
Nominal Impedance  
8 ohm  
Frequency Response  
65 Hz to 21 kHz, +/- 3 dB  
Sensitivity  
88 dB with 2.83 V pink noise input,  
measured at 1 meter on axis  
Frame Dimensions  
8-1/4" x 14-1/2"  
Hole Cut-Out Dimensions  
7-1/8" x 13-1/4"  
(21.0 cm x 36.8 cm)  
(18.1 cm x 33.7 cm)  
Depth Behind Wall  
3-1/2" (based on 1/2" drywall)  
(8.9 cm)  
Wiring Requirements  
We recommend using 16- to 18-gauge loudspeaker wire for runs up to 80 feet and  
14-gauge loudspeaker wire for runs up to 200 feet. The connectors will accommo-  
date 12- to 22-gauge wire.  
23  
NILES AUDIO CORPORATION – 1-800-BUY-HIFI – 305-238-4373  
 
NOTES  
24  
 
NOTES  
25  
NILES AUDIO CORPORATION – 1-800-BUY-HIFI – 305-238-4373  
 
®
BL E N D I N G HI G H FI D E L I T Y AN D AR C H I T E C T U R E  
N i l e s A u d i o C o r p o r a t i o n  
1 2 3 3 1 S . W . 1 3 0 S t r e e t M i a m i , F l o r i d a 3 3 1 8 6  
D e s i g n e d a n d E n g i n e e r e d i n U S A  
1 - 8 0 0 - B U Y - H I F I o r 3 0 5 - 2 3 8 - 4 3 7 3  
©2008 Niles Audio Corporation. All rights reserved. Niles, the Niles logos and Architecture are  
registered trademarks of Niles Audio Corporation. MicroPerf and TCC are trademarks of  
Niles Audio Corporation. All other trademarks are the property of their respective owners. DS00421B  
 

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